Norwegian ‘Bacalhau’ in Brazil

By Juliana Tafur, Editor & Publisher

“The best seafood comes from Norway,” reads the slogan of the Norwegian Seafood Export Council, whose mission is to promote and export Norwegian seafood products all over the world. In Brazil, new chief Johnny Håberg is eight weeks into his post. A former media executive, his background is important for the council’s mission, which is to influence Brazilian consumers to increase their consumption of Norwegian seafood.

In theory, it should be simple. “You ask Brazilians what they associate Norway with, and they’ll say ‘bacalhau da Noruega’,” says Håberg. He’s referring to the dried and salted codfish from the Norwegian oceans, which has a long history with Brazil.

The practice of drying cod began with the Vikings, in the 9th century, though it was the Spaniards who first introduced the technique of salting the fish. “Back then they had no way to preserve food, so the tradition of drying cod began as an attempt to preserve the fish – a very practical purpose,” Håberg explains.

Dried codfish reportedly came to Brazil in the 16th century with the Portuguese, who considered the product their ‘loyal friend’. Some records indicate that It only became widely known after the royal court came from Portugal in the early 19th century. Increased ‘bacalhau’ demand from the ‘new land’ resulted in the first Norway-Brazil trade ship voyage with dried codfish in 1843. The Norwegians took coffee in exchange.

By the 1890s, dried codfish had permeated Brazilian society. Rio de Janeiro’s intellectuals reportedly gathered in downtown restaurants to eat Portuguese-style ‘bacalhau’ and discuss the country’s problems. It was also common for families to have the dish at least once a week, usually on Fridays.

But the Second World War and the decrease of food products throughout Europe dramatically changed this dynamic. Higher prices for dried codfish meant fewer people could afford it, and ‘bacalhau’ went from being consumed once a week to once or twice a year.

“Now Brazilians eat dried codfish either on Christmas or Easter. The average person eats approximately 170 grams per year, whereas in Portugal the average person eats six kilograms of dried codfish per year,” says Håberg.

His job is to bridge this gap and make Brazilians eat dried codfish more regularly. But how? In Portugal, with more money to spend and with other food items at elevated prices, the cost of dried codfish doesn’t seem prohibitive. Whereas in Brazil, notes Håberg, “filet mignon and other food items are much cheaper.”

Recognizing his challenge, Håberg admits that the price makes a big difference. “However,” he adds, “the message we transmit is that a kilo of dried codfish feeds up to eight people.” So far this year, the numbers seem to indicate that this message is working.

From January to August, there’s been a substantial increase in fish products exported from Norway to Brazil – 29 percent more than the same period last year. Of that percentage, the vast majority is dried codfish.

Part of the Norwegian Seafood Export Council’s strategy to popularize the product in Brazil consists in publishing recipe books, which incorporate local ingredients in the preparation of dried codfish dishes. The latest one, ‘Bacalhau da Noruega com Frutas Brasileiras’, was launched in July.

Håberg is eight weeks into the job, and hopes to be in charge for the next five years, the maximum his post allows. Although the seafood export council office in Brazil is small, consisting of him and an assistant, Håberg has big plans for the next couple of years.

“For the remainder of the year,” he says, “I plan to continue the strategy left in place by my predecessor. For 2011, I am beginning to envision other strategies to make dried codfish more attractive to Brazilians.”